In some distant bar, in a steamy corner of Indochina, I once met a man who had spent a lifetime trawling through Asia. He was a Graham Greene character, dishevelled, weary, wrestling with his soul after several G&Ts. We talked of places, of here and there. In his crumpled suit, he seemed unable to raise much enthusiasm for anywhere in particular.
Until I mentioned Cambodia. Suddenly, his eyes lit up. ‘The last paradise of Indochina,’ he said. ‘Once you get beyond those spooky temples.’
My friend’s spooky temples are the magnificent ruins of Angkor, one
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